Should I take a calèche ride, and are the horses okay?
The short answer
Look for the blue SPANA band on the horse's ankle. It means veterinary-inspected, microchipped, and passed as fit to work.
SPANA — Society for the Protection of Animals Abroad — has been in Morocco since 1925. Their Marrakech clinic is the biggest in the world. Since 1988, they've run the calèche licensing scheme: every horse inspected three times a year plus spot checks, covering nutrition, hoof care, harness fit, and condition.
Nine water troughs on the main carriage routes, cleaned and refilled twice daily. Before the troughs, dehydration was one of the biggest welfare problems.
SPANA hosts annual Calèche of the Year Awards — since 1996. Winners get copper plaques mounted on the front of their carriage. Look for the plaques when you choose a carriage.
Prices are printed on a sticker on every carriage. Agree the price and route before you get in. A fare negotiated so low that the driver can't feed the horse costs more than it saves.
The Jarjeer Mule and Donkey Refuge in the Atlas foothills welcomes visitors.