Urban Reference · Morocco57 questions · 7 guides

What you notice.
Explained.

Why riads feel cooler. Why there are cats. Why Google Maps fails. The infrastructure, architecture, and culture behind everything you observe.

Arrival & Logistics
  1. 01Why can't my taxi take me to the door?Riads are nestled in car-free zones of the medina.→
  2. 02What is the tourist tax?A government levy (taxe de séjour) of approximately €2.50 per person per night.→
  3. 03Is there a ride-hailing app?inDrive is the most widely used. Uber relaunched in late 2025.→
  4. 04How do I get a petit taxi to use the meter?Say compteur before the car moves.→
  5. 05What's the difference between petit and grand taxis?Petit taxis are city-only and metered. Grand taxis are intercity and shared.→
  6. 06How do trains work?ONCF runs everything. Al Boraq is Africa's only high-speed rail.→
  7. 07How do buses work?Two names: Supratours and CTM.→
  8. 08What plugs do they use?Type C and E — same as France.→
The Medina
  1. 01What is a medina?The Arabic word for "city."→
  2. 02Why is my GPS wrong?High walls bounce GPS signals — errors of 10 to 30 metres.→
  3. 03What does "Balak!" mean?Move aside.→
  4. 04Why does the bathroom smell?Dry drain traps. Run the tap for ten seconds.→
  5. 05Why is the riad so hard to find?The door is designed to blend into the wall.→
  6. 06Why is it so cold inside in winter?Thermal mass works both ways.→
  7. 07Why can you hear everything?The courtyard is a vertical amphitheatre.→
  8. 08Why are the beds so hard?That's how they're meant to feel in Morocco.→
  9. 09Why are there cockroaches in a clean riad?Climate and infrastructure, not hygiene.→
  10. 10Why is it so loud at 4:30am?The call to prayer (Fajr) from minarets.→
  11. 11What was the 2023 earthquake?Magnitude 6.8, 8 September 2023.→
  12. 12Why are the walls stained or bubbling?Efflorescence — mineral salts pushed to the surface by moisture.→
  13. 13Why are the floors stained or uneven?Handmade tiles are porous by nature.→
  14. 14Why does the wifi barely work?Thick walls block the signal.→
  15. 15Why does the electricity flicker?Old wiring and shared circuits.→
  16. 16Why are there cats everywhere?They're the city's pest control.→
Social & Cultural
  1. 01Is it rude to refuse tea?Tea is a social contract.→
  2. 02What should I wear?Shoulders and knees covered.→
  3. 03Can I photograph people?Ask first.→
  4. 04Can you show affection in public?Kissing or heavy physical contact is culturally out of place and legally punishable.→
  5. 05Is Morocco safe for LGBTQ+ visitors?Same-sex sexual activity is illegal under Article 489 — 6 months to 3 years.→
  6. 06Should you remove shoes?In homes, riad living areas, and mosques — yes.→
  7. 07Why does time work differently here?Two systems running at once.→
  8. 08Why does everyone want cash?Card acceptance is patchy.→
  9. 09How does bargaining work?Expected in souks, not everywhere.→
  10. 10Why does everyone ask where I'm from?Conversational opener, not interrogation.→
  11. 11Why do people stare?Curiosity, not hostility.→
Food & Drink
  1. 01Can I drink the tap water?Safe but mineral-heavy.→
  2. 02How do you eat from a shared tagine?Right hand, bread as utensil, eat from the section in front of you.→
  3. 03What's the difference between a local and a spa hammam?Local: 20 dirhams, communal. Spa: 400–800 dirhams, private.→
  4. 04Why does mint tea taste different here?It's not mint-flavoured tea.→
  5. 05Can you eat vegan?Easier than expected.→
  6. 06Can you drink alcohol?Legal, available, but not everywhere.→
  7. 07Why is my stomach upset?Change in diet, not food poisoning.→
Safety
  1. 01Why do the henna ladies grab your hand?The paste stains in seconds and can't be wiped off.→
  2. 02Are the monkeys in the square ethical?No.→
  3. 03Should I take a horse carriage?Look for the blue SPANA band on the horse's ankle.→
  4. 04What is the police touristique?Morocco's dedicated tourist police unit.→
  5. 05How do I tell a real guide from a fake one?Official guides carry a large circular brass badge.→
  6. 06What do I do if I get lost at night?Head toward light.→
  7. 07Why do the streets look sketchy?They're centuries old, not dangerous.→
Religious Calendar
  1. 01What is Ramadan?The Islamic month of fasting from dawn to sunset.→
  2. 02What is Eid al-Adha?Morocco's most important religious holiday.→
  3. 03When are public holidays?11 fixed national holidays and 4 Islamic holidays that shift annually.→
Cities
  1. 01Can you go inside the Koutoubia mosque?No.→
  2. 02Why does Agadir look nothing like other Moroccan cities?An earthquake destroyed it in 1960.→
  3. 03Is Casablanca worth visiting?The Hassan II Mosque and the Art Deco district.→
  4. 04Is Rabat the capital?Yes, since 1912.→
  5. 05Is Taghazout still a surf village?The village and surf culture remain. The coastline south has transformed.→

A Slow Morocco publication · Dancing with Lions