How much cash should I bring?

Riads, mid-range and upscale restaurants, and supermarkets take cards. Almost everything else runs on cash: taxis, street food, the souk, hammams, tips, entry to monuments, henna, hat repairs, the boy with the donkey. A typical traveller spends 300 to 600 MAD per day in cash on top of card payments.

ATMs are everywhere in the cities — Attijariwafa, BMCE, Banque Populaire. They cap withdrawals at 2,000 to 4,000 MAD per transaction and charge a 20 to 30 MAD fee. Bring two cards from different networks; ATMs in the medina occasionally refuse one and accept the other for no obvious reason.

Carry small notes. Breaking a 200 MAD note at a corner shop is genuinely difficult; the 20 and 50 MAD notes are what you actually spend.