Can I bring dirhams into the country?

The Moroccan dirham (MAD) is non-convertible by law. It can't legally be bought outside the country, and you can't export more than 2,000 MAD when you leave. Western banks don't stock it. Whatever you change at a London or Paris bureau de change is either marked up by 20 percent or fake.

Change on arrival. Airports have multiple booths in the arrivals hall, all of them legitimate — Bank Al-Maghrib sets the daily rate and the booths post it. Marrakech Menara, Casablanca Mohammed V, and Fes-Saïs all have ATMs in the same hall that give a better rate than the booths. Take out 1,500 to 2,000 MAD on day one and you're set until you find a city ATM.

On the way home: keep your exchange receipts. You can convert up to 50 percent of what you originally changed back to euros or dollars at the airport, but only with the receipts.