How do I get a petit taxi to use the meter?

One word, said at the window before you get in: compteur. Petit taxis are legally required to run the meter, and drivers know it — most rides inside Marrakech land between 15 and 40 dirhams. After about 9pm the night tariff adds roughly half again, and that part is official, not inspiration.

You will, of course, meet the broken meter. It breaks most reliably near hotels, the square, and the train station, where a flat 50 or 100 dirhams gets quoted to arrivals who don't yet know that's three rides' worth. The cure isn't an argument — it's the next taxi. Better still, flag one that's moving rather than one that's parked and waiting: taxis in traffic are working, taxis lurking at tourist spots are fishing, and the two run on different economies.

If you do agree a price, agree it completely before the door closes, and carry small notes. A driver asked to break a 200 discovers a shortage of change with truly impressive reliability.